A broken decapping pin can stop a reloading session cold. The good news is that it's usually a quick, cheap fix. The better news is that most breaks are preventable. This guide explains why pins break and what to keep on the bench. No load data here, just equipment.
What a decapping pin does
The decapping pin is the small pin at the end of the decapping rod in a sizing or decapping die. As the case rises into the die, the pin goes through the flash hole and pushes the spent primer out.
It's thin by design, so it breaks if something blocks it or if it hits the case at an angle. On most dies, the pin is the cheapest part of the assembly, which is part of the point: better a pin than a rod or a die body.
Common causes
Berdan-primed cases
Most modern U.S. reloadable brass is Boxer-primed, with one central flash hole. Some foreign military and commercial brass is Berdan-primed, with two small flash holes off to the side. A standard decapping pin hits solid brass and can bend or snap. Inspect the inside of the case or the primer pocket if you're unsure.
Steel-cased and aluminum-cased ammunition generally isn't meant to be reloaded and should be kept out of your reloading brass. A magnet catches steel cases quickly when sorting.
Small or off-size flash holes
Some brass has smaller flash holes than usual. A standard pin may not fit cleanly. Some die makers offer smaller pins for those situations.
Debris in the case
A media pellet, pin from a wet tumbler or a stuck primer can block the pin. This is common with tumbled brass. Always check that cases are clear.
Setup errors
If the decapping rod is set too low, the pin can hit the case head or shell holder. Follow the die maker's setup instructions.
Stuck primers and crimps
A primer crimped in place, as in much military brass, takes more force to push out. The pin can bend if it isn't centered or the rod isn't tight. Decap crimped brass with a sturdy universal decapper and go slowly. The crimp itself has to be removed later, before priming; see our primer pocket tools guide.
How to replace a pin
Most decapping rods hold the pin with a collet, a set screw or a threaded design. Steps vary by brand:
- Remove the decapping rod from the die per the maker's instructions.
- Loosen the collet or screw and remove the broken pin.
- Insert a new pin of the correct type.
- Tighten and reinstall, checking the setting.
Some designs, like Lee's, are built to let the pin slip rather than break under load. Check your die's instructions for how it should behave.
After replacing a pin, run a single case and check that the spent primer comes out cleanly and the pin isn't striking the shell holder. That quick check catches setup mistakes before they break the new pin.
Bent rods and other damage
A broken pin is usually the only damage, but check the rest of the decapping assembly too. A bent decapping rod can push the pin off center, which causes repeat breaks and can scratch case necks. Roll the rod on a flat surface to see if it wobbles. Check the expander ball or mandrel for scratches, and look inside the die body for brass shavings.
If the rod is bent, replace it rather than straightening it. Most die makers sell replacement rods and expanders. Keep a note of which rod fits which die, since they vary by cartridge and brand.
Prevention
- Sort and inspect range brass. Remove Berdan-primed and damaged cases before decapping.
- Check cases for media. After tumbling, look inside or shake cases out over a media separator.
- Use a universal decapping die for dirty range brass, so you decap before cleaning and protect your sizing die. Our universal decapping die guide explains how they work.
- Set up dies carefully per the instructions.
- Slow down with unknown brass. Feel each stroke. If a case resists more than usual, stop and look before forcing it.
Decap first or clean first?
Where decapping fits in your workflow affects how often pins break. There are two common approaches:
- Decap first, then clean: Use a universal decapping die on dirty range brass. Grit stays away from your sizing die, and wet tumbling or ultrasonic cleaning can then clean the primer pockets.
- Clean first, then size and decap together: Simpler, and common with dry tumbling, but media can lodge in flash holes, which is a frequent cause of pin trouble.
Neither is wrong. If you break pins often, though, switching to decap-first is one of the easiest fixes. Our wet vs dry tumbling guide compares the cleaning side.
What to keep on hand
| Item | Why |
|---|---|
| Spare decapping pins for each die brand | Fast fix when a pin breaks |
| Universal decapping die | Decap dirty brass before sizing |
| Small screwdriver and wrench set | Replacing pins and adjusting dies |
| Media separator | Clearing media from cases |
| Labeled parts box | Keeps spare pins organized |
Our spare-parts plan covers building a small kit of common wear items.
Spare pins are inexpensive and small, so it makes sense to keep a few for each die brand you use. Store them with the die or in a small labeled parts box, so you aren't hunting for one mid-session.
The picks
Keep the universal decapper and spare pins together, ideally in the same drawer as your shell holders. When a pin breaks, the fix should take a couple of minutes, not a trip to the store or an order and a week's wait.
Frequently asked questions
How do I tell Berdan from Boxer brass?
Look inside the case at the base. Boxer has one central flash hole. Berdan has two small off-center holes.
Can I reload Berdan-primed brass?
It requires different tools and primers, and most reloaders simply set it aside. Follow your manual's guidance.
Do all die brands use the same pins?
No. Buy pins made for your die brand and rod design.
Should I decap before or after cleaning?
Many reloaders decap dirty brass with a universal decapper first, then clean. It protects sizing dies and cleans primer pockets in wet tumbling.
Where do I get load data?
From a current published reloading manual. We don't publish load data.
Why does my pin keep breaking on the same brass?
That usually points to the brass, such as small flash holes, Berdan primers, crimps or debris, or to a bent rod. Inspect a few of the cases and the rod before you install another pin.
Editorial note: This guide is based on manufacturer information, retailer listings and published references. We haven't tested these products hands-on for this article. Specs and prices change, so check current listings. We may earn a commission from qualifying purchases through links on this page.
Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Reloading Gear earns from qualifying purchases.